
LOCATION
Mollymook. Milton. Ulladulla. A stretch of coast where time appears to have politely declined the invitation to rush.
Mollymook
Mollymook, all curve and salt. Long beach, dependable swell. Early swims, warm sand, a coffee from somewhere with a line out front. Surfers arrive with salt-crusted cars and boards older than some of the kids in the backseat. Modern cuisine has arrived though and you can tuck into a hot plate of chicken wontons or a tea smoked Peking Duck at Gwylo. Or make a night of it and treat yourself to a fresh lobster at Rick Stein’s.
MILTON
Milton is slower still. A town with pressed tin ceilings, second hand books, old school bakeries, an old theatre and shop windows that seem to change only when they feel like it.
Altar wine bar has the best hand shucked oysters, cheeses and charcuterie. Ted’s is a sixty-year-old butcher shop where they know your name or will if you give it a second visit. Pilgrims has been serving the best vegetarian fare here since 1980. Drop into Dangerous Ales for a Crispy Boi Lager or feast on the Middle East at Nomah.
Ulladulla
Ulladulla, meanwhile, goes about its business. Fishing boats in and out. Pelicans that don’t blink. A wharf, a fish co-op, a proper hardware store. Hayden’s is a brilliant pie shop if you know where to look. You’ll be back. And Cuppit’s Estate is a great day out at the winery.
This part of the South Coast doesn’t perform. It simply is. Bushland and beaches. A slower tempo. Swim, eat, rest, repeat.